Fish sauce is longer-lasting, more convenient and always in my fridge.

My spring flowers had just finished blooming, and I was holding the largest bunch ofkaleI had ever encountered.

I knew this much kale needed to be turned into a salad.

a recipe photo of the Garlic-Anchovy Pasta with Broccolini

Photo:Jacob Fox

What I did have, though, was a bottle of fish sauce.

Fish sauce, however, can last two to three years if kept in a cool, dark place.