If you attend one of Yana Gilbuenas dinners, dont bother asking for utensils.
She would go speak to him personally.
“It was my way to challenge the constructs of Western definitions of dining,” Gilbuena says.

Photo: Jenny Huang
“Well, what about the folks in Kentucky?
Do they have to travel to New York just to get a taste?
I said, f–k it.

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I’ll just go bring it to them!”
When Spain colonized the Philippines in 1565, its influence settled over the islands like a ton of bricks.
So Gilbuena makes a point to serve dishes that are as precolonial or Indigenous-inspired as possible.

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Take Chicken Inasal, for example.
One Spanish-influenced dish she makes an exception for?
To make your own, steep 2 Tbsp.

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annatto seeds in 1/4 cup hot canola or coconut oil for 30 minutes.
Strain and discard the seeds.
Look for the juice bottled or frozen.

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Lime or lemon juice can be substituted.
(Try calamansi inBistek Tagalog).
It’s also sold separately.

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Skip anything labeled cream of coconut, which is sweetened and used to make things like cocktails.
It’s a staple throughout Southeast Asia and parts of India.
Use it in marinades and dressings or to make pickled vegetables.

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Fish sauce:This is the ultimate umami sauce.
Gilbuena recommends seeking out one made with just anchovy, salt and water for the best flavor.
you could use fish sauce instead for a similar vibe.

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Tamarind:Filipinos' go-to souring agent is tamarind.
This tropical tree produces a sour-sweet fruit in a brown pod, with edible pulp.
It’s often sold in concentrate or pulp form.
Let stand for 20 minutes.
Break up the paste and mix it with the water with a fork.